Venice has been spoiled by tourists – so head to its unheralded neighbour instead

Venice in the summer months resembles a city-wide game of sardines, with hotels and restaurants booked up, scrums at the entrance to every major church or attraction, and human traffic jams that stretch from St Mark’s to the Rialto. But peace and quiet is just a 30-minute train ride away, in the form of Treviso. 

Ironically, hundreds of thousands of tourists already flock to Treviso every year. They then immediately board a shuttle bus and leave again. That’s because Treviso Airport (artfully rebranded “Venice-Treviso”) is used by penny-pinching, low-cost airlines – most notably Ryanair – as a cheaper gateway to the Floating City, some 20 miles away.  

But Treviso is much more than just an airport. Its charming walled centre is full of surprises, with something to see at each corner: it has its own canals, as well as postcard-pretty rivers overhung with greenery, plus frescoed facades and intriguing art. Food and wine take a lead role – one of the world’s favourite desserts, Tiramisù, originated here, there are plenty of characterful osterias and the Prosecco hills are nearby. Despite 400 years as part of the Venetian Republic, the town displays a strong personality of its own – all with the added benefits of cheaper hotels and fewer visitors. 

Medieval relics 

Treviso has long been a colourful place. Between about 1200 and 1400 facades throughout the centre were painted with bright frescoes, some resembling tapestry designs, others depicting legends or religious themes, and numerous patches of faded yet delicately decorative colour remain. 

Fourteenth-century artist Tomaso da Modena also left his mark, with impressive paintings in several churches including detailed portraits of 40 Dominicans at San Nicolò and the vibrant Saint Ursula cycle on display at Museo Santa Caterina.   

A city of water…

Water is a graceful and almost constant presence in Treviso. The Sile and Botteniga rivers edge the historic centre between grassy, tree-lined banks and the wide 16th-century town walls (ideal for running, walking or cycling) and weave through the town itself via a series of canals punctuated by ancient waterwheels and contemporary sculptures. Ponte Dante, the bridge spanning the confluence of the Cagnan canal and River Sile, was known in the past as Ponte dell’Impossibile for the seemingly hopeless task of building a crossing at that point.

In 1389 Treviso chose to join the thriving Venetian Republic, and one of its most curious monuments, Fontana delle Tette (the fountain of the breasts) was given to the city by Venice in 1559 to celebrate the end of a drought. From then until the fall of the republic (1797) the statue would spout wine instead of water – red from one breast, white from the other – for three days each autumn, with all citizens able to drink for free. Sadly the tradition no longer continues, but you can see the fountain in the Casa da Noal Museum.

…and wine

Treviso is very much tied to its surrounding territory, or Marca, which includes the vine-covered hills of the Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG (Controlled and Guaranteed Designation of Origin) area, a Unesco World Heritage Site. Wineries offer tours and tastings and multiple events are held each spring for Primavera del Prosecco. 

Prosecco’s other DOCG area, Asolo, located around the attractive historic town of the same name, overlaps with the small Montello wine area, whose forests were once the exclusive source of wood for boat-building in Venice. While Montello DOCG wines are Cabernet and Merlot-based, the Giusti winery is also investing in a forgotten local grape, Recantina, which makes seductively smooth and fruity red wines. Along with accommodation (see below) the winery has the striking ruins of an 11th-century abbey on its estate with an on-site wine bar (open Friday-Sunday). 

Back in Treviso, join the locals for an aperitivo – a daily ritual here – with a spritz, Prosecco, or other local wine such as still white Incrocio Manzoni. A popular place for a glass and mini-panino is Vecia Hostaria dai Naneti a laid-back deli-style bar dating from 1896. Osteria Muscoli’s, one of many simple, long-standing wooden-tabled wine bars also serving meals, sits opposite the pretty, tree-lined Pescheria island, created in the 19th century to house the fish market. The panino al Prosecco is a classic snack here: bread soaked in Prosecco and filled with mortadella, aioli and cheese. 

A taste of Treviso

Thanks to Treviso’s position, the cuisine offers a good balance of seafood, meat and vegetables. A prime product is the red-leaved Radicchio Trevigiano and risotto al radicchio is a regular on menus, while bigoli in salsa (thick spaghetti with anchovy and onion sauce) is the most typical pasta dish. Jars of the tasty sauce, together with preserved radicchio and countless other speciality foods, are on sale at the boutique-style Fermi by the Pescheria. 

But the city’s real claim to fame in terms of gastronomy is the Tiramisù, which first appeared on a restaurant menu in 1972 at Le Beccherie (see below) and is celebrated each October with the Tiramisù World Cup competition for amateurs.

A destination for any time of year, Treviso makes an ideal base for exploring the nearby wine areas, countryside and coast, for visiting Venetian Villas and for escaping crowded Venice, but most of all it’s simply a lovely place to be, with an understated elegance and charm that gets under your skin. All those Ryanair passengers who flock straight to La Serennisima are missing a trick. 

Getting there and around

Ryanair flies to Treviso from dozens of European airports, though none in the UK. So head there by train from Venice (a 30-minute hop) as soon as you’re ready for a break from the crowds (book tickets via italiatren.com). Treviso Station is on the edge of the town’s historic centre, an easy stroll from the main sights. If you intend to explore the Prosecco hills, a hire car is a must. 

Where to stay

Locanda San Tomaso 

There’s an appealing country blues vibe at this characterful b&b run by Martina Zoia and her artist husband, Beppe Mora. The historic building with ceiling beams and wooden floors adjacent to the San Tomaso city gate has six rooms, all furnished with a fascinating medley of vintage pieces. locandasantomaso.it 

Locanda Ponte Dante

Contemporary design creates a striking contrast with centuries-old art and architecture at this Renaissance palazzo with five bedrooms and a traditional osteria serving dishes such as home-made pasta with poultry ragout. The location, where two rivers meet, is mentioned in Dante’s Divine Comedy. locandapontedante.com

Country House Abazia

Just 12 miles north of Treviso, this comfortable and spacious villa surrounded by vines on the Giusti Wine estate has six b&b rooms, an open-air pool and an excellent restaurant with panoramic terrace tables. The evocative ruins of the Sant’Eustachio abbey are a short stroll away and the winery is a 10-minute walk. giustiwine.com 

Where to eat

Le Beccherie

The restaurant where Tiramisù originated is elegant but relaxed, in terms o f both atmosphere and food. The menu includes tempting dishes like lamb with raspberry and recipes with foraged herbs and leaves such as spaghetti with silene-leaf pesto and amberjack tartare. lebeccherie.it

Osteria Arman

A highly popular, no-frills trattoria dating from 1872, with wooden tables and ceiling beams. Try tasty specialities such as baccalà mantecato (creamed cod), pasta with beans or Venetian-style liver and onions, or pop in for a glass of local wine and a ‘cicchetto’ bar snack. osteria-arman.eatbu.com 

Toni al Spin 

Locals have been coming to this trattoria at the heart of town for over 100 years for well-prepared traditional dishes in a relaxed atmosphere. Join them for bigoli in salsa (pasta with anchovies and onion), risotto with Treviso’s speciality radicchio, guinea-fowl or sopa coada (pigeon stew). ristorantetonidelspin.com