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On the poster promoting the new series of The Crown on Netflix, actress Elizabeth Debicki does her best ‘Shy Di’, peeping out from under her trademark blonde crop. But it is not Princess Diana’s eyes that are the focal point of the image: it’s her substantial gold earrings.
Diana was famously a fan of bold, Eighties jewellery and wore her trademark styles well into the Nineties. Some decades on, though, Eighties-look earrings are having a resurgence. It is one of the easiest trends to tap into this party season - not least if you’ve hung on to now-vintage pieces from the first time around.
Few eras embody the excessive spirit of the festive season better than the Eighties, and this year, all elements of the decade’s signature style are back in a big way. While dresses are sequinned, jewel-coloured and thigh-grazing, jewellery designers also got the sartorial memo, with big, gold earrings adding the finishing touch to any party look.
Bottega Veneta debuted its Drop earrings on the Autumn/Winter 2022 catwalks and the cult purchase has since been worn by A-listers, including Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Kendall Jenner. The style has proven so influential, that a year on there are numerous dupes available on the high street - everywhere from H&M to Mango.
Valentino, Chanel and Saint Laurent have since all showcased their own fresh takes on the Eighties penchant for bold, graphic designs - from angular hoops with bubble textures, to enormous sculptural styles that look like clip-on costume jewellery.
In Hollywood, Kim Cattrall, Sabrina Elba and Julianne Moore have all been rocking the trend. The Princess of Wales - typically known for her more demure approach to accessorising - has been opting for bigger and bolder ear adornments too. Her cocktail earring collection now spans Simone Rocha’s giant gold and faux pearl droplets, and Shyla London’s gold-textured hoops.
Several British demi-fine jewellers have backed the revival, with big, bold and gold styles in the collections at Astrid & Miyu, Alighieri and YSSO.
“[The Eighties] was a period where fashion shifted from dainty and delicate, to strong and assertive, paving the way to allow women to make a statement with their clothes and jewellery,” says Alexia Karides, YSSO’s founder, who had Christy Turlington and Cindy Crawford on her design moodboard.
If you want to re-do the Eighties authentically, there are also vintage options. Vintage jewellery expert Susan Caplan has seen a rise in customers buying Eighties earrings by Chanel in particular, thanks to the exhibition which opened at the V&A last month. For sale on her website now, there are dozens of pairs of authenticated Eighties earrings, in all their weighty, textured glory.
“Earrings seem to be the most popular, particularly Chanel with the iconic CC logo,” she confirms, noting that many buyers seek vintage jewellery because of sustainability principles. “A pair of vintage earrings can be bought for a mere £35.”
Another green option is to rent your party season earrings. The brand 4element has loaned high-impact pieces to A-listers including Alexa Chung and Rochelle Humes for the red carpet. “The demand for jewellery from the 1980s and pieces inspired by that era is undoubtedly high,” says 4element’s founder, Monika Wojtal. “Pieces were bold, opulent, statements, and, importantly, highly versatile.
“Customers are in search of vintage pieces from fashion houses like Chanel, Christian Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent. Pearl necklaces and matching earrings from Christian Dior or colourful gem extra-large earrings from YSL are highly requested.”
The best thing about this trend is that it is an easy way to dress up without dressing up – simply add a megawatt pair of baubles to a nice top and jeans and you’re good to go, as Wojtal explains.
“In the Eighties, jewellery was designed to command attention, to seize the spotlight, easily elevating the casual jeans and T-shirt look. Your wardrobe could take a back seat while the focus shifted entirely to your jewellery choice.”
And if you’ve got pieces gathering dust in your jewellery box, now is the time to dig them out and either channel your inner Grace Jones and re-wear them, or capitalise on the trend and sell them off.
If doing the latter, Caplan says to remember her three C’s: “Credibility, Craftsmanship and Condition. Credibility is ensuring its authenticity by establishing if the piece is original. Craftsmanship is ensuring that the design was correctly executed for that period by reviewing key components for example the weight. Lastly, the condition is understanding if the piece is in its original condition or if there are any repairs.”
A professional can help you establish this, and the value. In terms of which Eighties styles are most-wanted, Caplan says, it is a case of the bigger the better.
Five pairs to buy now
Clockwise from bottom left: Molten hoops, £70, Astrid & Miyu; 1980s Vintage Stylised Clip-On earrings, £65, Susan Caplan; Double gold plated, The Droplet V.III earrings, £390, YSSO; Lira Gold-Plated earrings, £165, Paola Sighinolfi at Matches; The Colossal Rocky Road earrings, £295, Alighieri at Net-a-Porter