Rankin’s portrait of King Charles is a fascinating mixture of old and new

Renowned photographer Rankin has released a new portrait of King Charles III to coincide with the monarch’s 75^th birthday. The portrait – taken for the cover of Big Issue – marks the advent of the King’s Coronation Food Project, a scheme which aims to redistribute surplus food to those that need it most. 

Rankin – the professional name of John Waddell – has previously captured everyone from David Bowie to Tony Blair, Mikhail Gorbachev to Madonna. He is known for his glossy approach to portrait photography; his ability to lend all his subjects the poise or drama of a fashion model.  

And, the first thing to note about his black-and-white portrait of the king is just how polished it is. Against a blurred background Charles is in sharp focus, turning in half-profile towards the camera. He wears a suit and tie, and is pulling a slight smile. His expression is open and frank: as he stares out at the viewer, he seems to invite them in. 

It’s a portrait of strength and power, but one that is a curious mixture of old and new. While Charles’s pin-striped suit feels as if it is from another age, the portrait’s composition is that of a contemporary headshot. It’s almost un-regal: Charles looks a little like a high-level executive or banker. 

Rankin’s modern portrait may seem an unconventional approach, but it is in keeping with a tradition of older royal photographic portraits, such as those taken by Cecil Beaton and Lord Snowdon in the 20th century. Beaton’s creations – frothy dresses in the younger years, and full regalia in the later – were more conspicuously royal, but they still depended on an intimacy with his subject; moments where, just for a flash, the Queen appeared like any other young girl or mother.