If 2022 was the year the storm finally blew over, leading us back to some kind of normality, 2023 will be the year we reclaim what we once took for granted. If you’ve never been to South Africa, this is the year to find out what the fuss is about; if you have, you’ll probably need no encouragement to return – but the pound has never been stronger against the rand, the hospitality industry never more welcoming, its geographic splendour as awe-inspiring as ever.  

The Western Cape provides many people’s first experience of the country – with good reason. Its gateway is one of the world’s great cities, its relatively traffic-free roads are perfect for a driving holiday and it offers a wonderful contrast of landscapes, from wild coastline to manicured vineyards. 

This two-week itinerary, featuring the best places to stay, eat and shop, offers something for both old hands and first-timers. It kicks off in Cape Town – long regarded by Telegraph Travel readers as the best city on Earth, includes time on the relatively unsung Overberg coast, with a sparkling journey to De Hoop Nature Reserve, features a couple of Garden Route favourites – Plettenberg Bay and Wilderness – and finishes with a trip to the Winelands.   

Tweaks are simple. If you’re pressed for time, simply skip the Overberg. For a complete change of scenery, we return to Cape Town via the semi-desert Karoo region. But an Eastern Cape safari also makes a simple addition (see expert tips below). 

Travelling through this big-sky country, largely uninhabited, induces something of a meditative state, a kind of travel therapy – perfect for these anxiety-inducing times. It brings to mind the opening stanza of one of my favourite Afrikaans poems, by Jan Celliers. It roughly translates as: 

It’s the blonde
It’s the blue
It’s the veld
It’s the sky
And a bird wheels above in lonely flight
That’s all

Take a metered taxi or Uber from the airport to Dorp, the most gorgeous little hotel located at the very top of Signal Hill, with picture-perfect views of Table Mountain and Devils Peak. If you’ve touched down in the morning (most direct flights do), head over to the Table Mountain cableway to ascend the flat-topped landmark for a lofty perspective on this city of views. 

Head back to Kloof Street to browse its many trendy restaurants and bars. Hip staff place simple, well-priced dishes on brown-paper-clad tables at Blondie (advanced booking unavailable); for a more groomed and elegant experience, and the most delicious sharing plates, you can’t go wrong with Elgr (book a table in the courtyard if the weather allows). Or else check out Ouzeri on nearby Wale Street, where chef Nic Charalambous is wowing locals with his contemporary interpretations of traditional recipes from the Eastern Mediterranean. 

Spend the afternoon exploring the V&A Waterfront (for locally made souvenirs, shop in the Watershed market), or simply cocoon at Dorp and watch the city lights twinkle through the large arched windows.

The Iziko SA National Gallery reopened at the end of 2022 with Breaking Down the Walls – 150 years of Art Collecting, and it is well worth setting aside a few hours to explore this thought-provoking exhibition. Then head over to Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens to see what’s flowering – backdropped by the forested eastern flank of Table Mountain, the setting is sublime.

Then, explore the wider peninsula, preferably with a private guide (a great tour is offered by Clive de Bruyne, priced at ZAR7800/£375 for two). A circular drive takes you south along the False Bay coast to Cape Point, then back north up the Atlantic seaboard, finally snaking along the epic Chapman’s Peak road. Clive can tailor the itinerary to suit your interests but all the must-do sights are included, including the penguin colony at Boulders Beach. The ideal lunch stop is a seaside table at Harbour House in Kalk Bay; if time allows, stroll the town’s dinky high street, one of the country’s most charming places to shop.

Have a hire car delivered to your hotel and head out along the N2 to Gordons Bay, then take Clarens Drive, the scenic coastal route that snakes its way to Rooi Els, before cutting back towards Hermanus. 

Stop for lunch at the Creation winery in the aptly named Hemel en Aarde (Heaven and Earth) Valley, home to arguably the Cape’s most consistently fine terroir (Hamilton Russell and Bouchard Finlayson are other fine producers). If you’d rather eat in Hermanus, Perlemoen (64 Marine Dr; +27 82 841 3547) has been earning rave reviews in recent years. 

From Hermanus, skirt the Klein River Lagoon to the charming village of Stanford, beyond which lies the Coot Club, with an idyllic location overlooking the bird-rich shallows, and your room for the next two nights. Opt for a Coot Club Boathouse, and spend the evening watching the changing light on the Maanschijn Mountains before strolling along a fynbos-fringed path and over lawns for dinner on site at Spookhuis.

It’s time for some R&R: wild swimming in the lagoon, kayaking past coots, sunset drinks on Walker Bay beach, spa treatments at the adjacent Mosaic Lagoon Lodge. Further afield there are plenty of wine-tasting options, shopping on Stanford’s high street, heritage walks, a cooking course (Madre’s Kitchen), as well as several stand-out restaurants. Manor House is the region’s most acclaimed country kitchen, located at Stanford Valley Guest Farm – with a delightful collection of cottages, this is a great alternative base if the Coot Club is booked up. 

It’s a leisurely two-hour drive east to the gates of the 34,000-hectare De Hoop Nature Reserve, with a gorgeous stretch of coastline where hundreds of southern right whales arrive each year from June to November to calve and nurse their young, as well as an inland lake and wetlands that teem with birdlife. 

De Hoop Collection offers a wide range of affordable accommodation options overlooking or near the Ramsar lake (a designation given to wetlands of significant natural importance), but for a front-row seat on an untouched beach, with no human development in sight, book either Morukuru Beach Lodge or Lekkerwater Beach Lodge. 

With mile upon mile of unspoilt sand, sandy alcoves embraced by limestone walls carved and pockmarked by the sea, and natural tidal pools protected by a reef, the focus is usually on the beach. But De Hoop also showcases the beauty and delicacy of fynbos, and is home to various species of antelopes, ostriches and baboons. 

Be sure to take a walk at low tide with a specialist guide to learn more about the diversity of the marine life, and to discover how the first homo sapiens found a safe haven on this glorious stretch of coastline, 100,000 years ago. 

Surrounded by the Garden Route National Park, with forests, an estuary, lakes and beaches, the village of Wilderness – just under three hours from De Hoop – is a great base to explore the Garden Route, a 190-mile stretch named for its lush and diverse vegetation. 

Check into one of Moontide Riverside Lodge’s new self-catering garden cottages – shaded by milkwoods, located on the Touw river estuary and just a few minutes’ stroll from the beach (and Salinas, the beachfront restaurant). Dine at Joplins, a timber cabin with a laid-back atmosphere and a chalkboard menu listing an array of steaks, all served with egg and chips – an unpretentious Garden Route gem. 

There are several walks but my favourite is the Kingfisher Trail that leads through ancient forest to a beautiful waterfall; an idyllic morning can be spent paddling one of the Moontide canoes along the majority of the route before hiking the last section. Wilderness Picnics offers an excellent basket of local produce – inquire at the hotel reception on arrival or book direct.

The Touw river – warm and shallow with a sandy bed – is fabulous to swim in, explore the Kaaimans Gorge with Eden Adventures, book a forest walk with knowledgeable and inspiring guide Mark Dixon, or simply choose one of the several Moontide decks overlooking the lagoon and get lost in a book. 

Check out of Moontide and head east on the coast road, traversing the region’s lakes and estuaries, to Knysna. Have lunch at Ile De Pain, a locally famous bakery on Thesen’s Island, surrounded by chi-chi shops.

Just outside Knysna is pretty Noetzie beach, encircled by rather incongruous modern stone castles – it’s a great spot for a swim if you have the time. Continue to Plettenberg Bay, where a couple of nights at Emily Moon River Lodge, overlooking the meandering Bitou, awaits. 

Head into Plett for the exhilarating 90-minute Swim with Seals experience offered by Offshore Adventures (pre booking essential). Then head to Ristorante Enrico at Keurbooms (a far less developed spot just beyond Plett) for pizza on the beach. 

In the afternoon take the boat into the beautiful Keurbooms Nature Reserve, or drive to the Robberg Nature Reserve for a stunning coastal walk. 

Pop into Old Nick Village, in Plett, for some retail therapy before returning to Emily Moon for dinner. 

Swap Plett for Prince Albert, a small but cosmopolitan town that’s popular with artists. If you’d prefer not to retrace your footsteps and don’t mind driving on dirt, take the longer route via Joubertina, or else double back to George before heading north via several scenic passes. 

Check into either Prince Albert Country Stay, on the high street, or Dennehof, on the outskirts of the town. 

A great way to explore the Victorian-era streets is with guide Ailsa Tudhope, “the Story Weaver” (pre booking essential) – or just stroll the shops in search of souvenirs like Avoova’s ostrich egg homeware and beautiful mohair clothing and blankets. 

End the day on the veranda of the Green Prince Gin Bar (part of the Swartberg Hotel), then stroll over the road for pizzas at African Relish Café, also a cooking school. If you feel like something more hearty, Karoo Kombuis offers a traditional menu heavy on Karoo lamb, chicken pie and sweetened veg.  

Enjoy a leisurely breakfast then depart via the Swartberg Pass, one of the most scenic roads in South Africa – its hair-raising switchbacks are worth it for the views. The drive along Route 62, through the semi-arid Klein Karoo, is equally mesmerising. 

It’s a four-hour journey to Montagu with no stops, or else pause at Calitzdorp to stock up on fortified wines from Bo Plaas or De Krans. 

Check into the beautifully-restored Jonkmanshof in Montagu, before dinner at 22 Church Street. 

After a leisurely breakfast take the scenic route via Villiersdorp to Franschhoek – over lofty peaks and through fruit-growing farms. Franschhoek, just under two hours away, offers wraparound mountain views, quaint streetscapes and plenty of sophistication.

Check into La Cotte or Leeu House, both in the heart of the town, with its plethora of restaurants, cafes and shops. Don’t miss the Franschhoek Motor Museum and a wine-tasting at adjacent Antonij Rupert (pre booking required). Dine at the award-winning Le Petite Colombe at Leeu Estate. 

Spend a day by the pool – or dive into some serious wine tasting. The sheer choice is mind-boggling but Delaire on Helshoogte Pass is among my favourite estates for its phenomenal views; neighbouring Oldenburg, tucked into the mountains, is another must. 

Babylonstoren can get crowded – but the gardens really are magnificent, its wine museum fun, its farm shop excellent, its wines far from shabby and its restaurants good. 

The easiest option is to book a wine tour with a venerable guide like Stephen Flesch, who strikes a great balance between iconic and off-the-beaten-track vineyards, or else jump on board the quirky Wine Tram (pre booking advised), which links a score of different estates (including Babylonstoren). 

You’ll need at least 90 minutes to get back to Cape Town International Airport – fortunately most departures are in the evening. 

South Africa is a year-round destination. If you’re looking for pretty much guaranteed sun, come between Christmas and March, but you won’t be alone so book early. Or wait until April when temperatures are balmy, the light is soft, sunsets spectacular and the Cape Doctor (the south-easterly wind that howls periodically through Cape Town during summer) is off duty.

The Cape winter kicks off in June but it’s still temperate, with sunny days alternating with short downpours. July and August are quiet, relaxed and the Cape’s low-season rates – also known as the “green season” or “secret season” – make it a bargain. July to November is also when southern right whales migrate to the Overberg coast, serving up some of the best land-based whale-watching in the world. 

The end of August into September sees the seemingly barren plains along the West Coast and Cederberg carpeted in riot of spring flowers. From October to December the coastline sparkles under a temperate sun – as good a time as any to meander along the Garden Route – before a mesmerising trip through the big-space valleys of the semi-arid Karoo. 

The above itinerary can easily be arranged independently, but you may find it easier to employ the services of a South Africa specialist such as Cedarberg Travel. It can tailor something to your exact specifications or offer a similar 13-night trip called Mellow Cape Self-drive Safari, priced from £1,840 per person.

As little as possible – whatever you forget can be purchased here, overnight laundry services are offered just about everywhere on this itinerary, and with all the excellent shopping opportunities you’ll want plenty of suitcase space. There are plenty of ATMs and most places, even market stalls, accept cards.

Award-winning South African authors tend to explore pretty bleak issues and crime writers can inflame unnecessary fears, but here are some local works worth considering: Children of Sugarcane (Joanne Joseph), The Wanderers (Mphuthumi Ntabeni), By the Fading Light (Ashraf Kagee), A Family Affair (Sue Nyati), The Second Verse (Onke Mazibuko), The Price of Mercy (Sean Davison), The Yearning (Mohale Mashigo), The Other Me (Joy Watson), Unusual Grief (Yewande Omotoso).

I recently flew to London in one of Virgin’s new Boeing 787-9 aircraft and it was the best direct flight from South Africa I’ve experienced. Virgin’s service to Cape Town is seasonal (until late March); it flies year-round to Johannesburg. 

Pick up a local SIM card at the airport on arrival. Load it with data for access to Google Maps and the Uber app – the easiest way to get around Cape Town. If you’re shopping online for your hire car, Tempest and Bluu are often cheapest and very professional. 

If you want to add a few nights in remote cabins into the mix, take a look at the handpicked selection on offer from Lifetree Collection. 

If you want to include a safari, consider a few days at Gondwana Game Reserve, the best Big Five experience in the Western Cape, immediately after (or in place of) De Hoop. Or add on a few days and head further east to Samara or Mount Camdeboo in the Eastern Cape – while not as authentic as somewhere like Kruger National Park, both offer good value. 

Scheduled power cuts are now an unavoidable part of life in South Africa. Most hotels have back-up generators or inverters but it’s well worth checking beforehand, and/or downloading the local ‘ESP’ app which updates the country on when and where it is happening daily, and charging your phone and other accessories when you can.

Have you ever visited South Africa? Please share the highlights from your itinerary in the comments.