The secret to the perfect Great Barrier Reef holiday

Like that first glimpse of the Pyramids or the Great Wall of China, few travellers forget their very first dive on the Great Barrier Reef. One minute you are pulling on fins and adjusting your mask, the next you are enveloped in a wonderous, silent, zen-like world of multi-hued coral and schools of darting tropical fish. 

Each year, thousands of people explore this astonishing natural landmark – which covers an area greater than the UK, the Netherlands and Switzerland combined – by boat, helicopter, seaplane and, for a lucky few, at the helm of their own luxury yacht.

With its flawless beaches, bustling coastal towns, lush national parks and seductive island resorts, the Great Barrier Reef is impressive from just about every angle. But the real story begins just below the waves – whether you are snorkelling close to shore or venturing to the outer reefs as part of a multi-day liveaboard scuba adventure.

While some of the most celebrated dive sites require a lengthy boat trip, there are plenty of excellent places closer to the mainland, such as Green Island (near Cairns) and Magnetic Island (near Townsville) where you can encounter sea turtles, rays, giant clams and flotillas of angelfish, damselfish, coral cod and, of course, the occasional Nemo (clown fish).

Stretching from Bundaberg in the south to the very tip of Cape York Peninsula, the Great Barrier Reef is not one single destination, but a collection of several quite distinct experiences – from the spinnaker splendour of the Whitsundays to the tropical party town that is Cairns.

When E. J. Banfield wrote about his life on Dunk Island (a few miles from Mission Beach) in his 1908 memoir Confessions of a Beachcomber, the Great Barrier Reef was unknown to most Australians, let alone people in the Northern Hemisphere. “Fertile and fruitful, set in the shining sea abounding with dugong, turtle and all manner of fish,” he wrote of his private island paradise. “And little more than half an hour’s canoe trip from the mainland.”

Over a century later, the fragile beauty and ecological significance of the Great Barrier Reef is known around the world. Despite this celebrity status, however, many of Banfield’s observations still ring true. Dunk Island, part of the Family Islands National Park, now welcomes 21st-century beachcombers who want to explore its rainforest walks, swim at Brammo Bay and camp overnight under the southern stars.

Occupied by indigenous people for over 40,000 years, the Great Barrier Reef proved an irresistible challenge for early European explorers from Louis de Torres to James Cook whose ship, HMS Endeavour, was almost lost when it hit a coral outcrop here in 1770. He named the spot Cape Tribulation.

With its breathtaking scenery, abundant marine life and colourful human history the Great Barrier Reef has always challenged, delighted and beguiled visitors from afar. Here, I explain how to see it for yourself.

The easiest and most affordable way to explore the Great Barrier Reef is from a mainland harbour such as Cairns, Townsville, Gladstone or Port Douglas. Cairns is the number one choice for budget travellers and young families, while Port Douglas is known for its fine dining, posh resorts and ritzy marina. Day trips to the reef are widely available all along the coast, but travel times to good dive sites are slightly shorter from Port Douglas.

Airlie Beach is the traditional stepping-off point for sailing adventures through the Whitsundays Islands, a chain of largely uninhabited islands at the heart of the Great Barrier Reef. Further north, Townsville is emerging as a major tourist hub with a lively nightlife, thriving dive scene, nearby national parks and easy access to the reef – Magnetic Island is just 20 minutes away by passenger ferry. 

The major airport in the region is located in Cairns, but there are smaller hubs in both Townsville and Gladstone, as well as on Hamilton Island (also known as the Great Barrier Reef Airport); this one is useful if you are staying on Hamilton Island itself or elsewhere in the Whitsundays, such as Daydream Island or Hayman Island. There are direct flights to Cairns from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Adelaide and Perth, plus several international destinations including Auckland, Tokyo, Denpasar (Bali) and Singapore. Airlines flying into Cairns include Qantas, Jetstar, Virgin Australia, Air New Zealand and Singapore Airlines. Travellers on a more relaxed schedule could hire a car in Brisbane and drive up the coast, but it’s an epic road trip by UK standards. Travel time to Cairns is around 20 hours (or 21 hours to Port Douglas) so it’s advisable to spread the journey over several days.

Queensland is promoted as a year-round destination, but it is at its best during the southern winter (June to August) when ocean temperatures are a pleasant 21C and the days are clear and sunny. In the tropics, there are two seasons: wet and dry. The wettest part of the year is from January to March, when the weather can be uncomfortable; this is also the cyclone season. Avoid Australian school holidays when accommodation and tours are heavily booked – especially during the long summer (December-February) vacation. Visitors also need to be aware of marine stingers – such as box jellyfish and Irukandji – which are a problem from November to May. During these months it’s advisable to wear special lycra “stinger suits” if spending long periods in the water.

Peak season on the Great Barrier Reef is from May to October, which are the driest months and when accommodation and tours are heavily booked. In theory, prices and availability ease in the quieter months – but don’t count on it. Major draw cards like nesting turtles (November and December) and coral spawning (October and November) ensure a steady flow of visitors to most parts of the reef. There are good deals available from time to time on things such as reef cruises, boutique accommodation and outdoor adventure tours but these are often only available for very limited periods. 

For first-time visitors to northern Queensland, booking a package that includes land transport, accommodation and guided tours is the best option. Seven-day tours that include coastal and island adventures start at around $A2,500 (£1,415), but expect to pay much more if you want to include international flights. Multi-day scuba-diving expeditions start at around $A1,000 (£565) for a three-day trip on a custom-designed liveaboard cruiser. High-end tours that include several Australian destinations, including the Great Barrier Reef, are also available but pricier. The fabulous 13-day Sun, Surf & Family Adventure from The Tailor (see below) costs around $A58,000 (£32,815) for a family of four, but all operators are happy to design an itinerary that suits your needs and budget.

If you are on a tight budget but turned off by the idea of a hostel, consider Bounce Cairns (staybounce.com), a resort-style property that comes with a bar, sundeck and swimming pool. Pitched firmly at international backpackers, Bounce will suit party-going extroverts looking for a central location. Dorm beds priced from $A28 (£16) a night. 

Gentrification is creeping into the remotest part of Queensland, but laid-back Airlie Beach (tourismwhitsundays.com.au) is a beacon of sanity. Often billed as “the gateway to the Whitsundays”, it is strategically located between Brisbane and Cairns, offers lively entertainment, national parks, pristine beaches, a good range of accommodation and easy access to the reef.

One of the Great Barrier Reef’s best-kept secrets is Lady Musgrave Park, a coral cay around 60 miles north-east of Bundaberg. Between Easter and late January visitors are allowed to camp on the island. Although the camping site lacks any modern facilities, the beachfront location is priceless – and the fees miniscule. Boat transfers must be booked in advance with the local operator (ladymusgraveexperience.com.au).

Small, remote and idyllic, Wilson Island (wilsonisland.com) is the closest most people will come to being a modern Robinson Crusoe. The coral cay covers just two hectares and is surrounded by flawless beaches and pristine water. The island has just nine safari-style tents, plus a communal dining area. Tariffs from $A1,295 (£730) per person per night.

Numerous UK travel companies offer packages to Australia, with itineraries typically covering the country’s ‘Big Three’ (Sydney, Uluru and the Great Barrier Reef) but specialist tours to northern Queensland and the Great Barrier Reef also available. Flight Centre (www.flightcentre.co.uk), for example, has an excellent 14-day Tropical North Queensland tour for £2,659 per person, which includes a full day of diving on the reef. Audley Travel’s more elaborate 17-day Australia Family Tour (www.audleytravel.com) includes Sydney, the Blue Mountains, the Sunshine Coast and Hamilton Island, priced at £5,245 per person. Both companies will tailor itineraries to suit your needs. 

If you’d rather focus entirely on the reef, a tour with an Australian firm is your best bet. Here are five of the most enticing options:

A day trip to the reef is not going to satisfy anyone who wants to do some serious scuba diving. Specially equipped liveaboard dive boats operate from several Queensland ports, including Cairns and Port Douglas. Mike Ball Dive Expeditions (www.mikeball.com) offers a wealth of experience and a custom-designed twin-hulled vessel. Its seven-night Coral Sea Exploratory trip includes 26 dives at some of the region’s best sites, including Cod Hole and Ribbon Reefs. Prices start at $A4,148 (£2,350) per passenger, with departures from July to December.

Located at the southern part of the reef, Heron Island (www.heronisland.com) is an important wildlife sanctuary. The surrounding waters teem with rays, reef sharks and tropical fish. Also among the island’s residents are green and loggerhead turtles, and a highlight of the calendar is turtle-hatching season which runs from December to April. The resort’s excellent Turtle Package costs $A174 (£99) per person per night and includes accommodation, snorkelling gear and guided turtle tours. 

Finding a quiet space around the Great Barrier Reef is not easy. One option is to hire your own yacht in the Whitsundays, or else book the romance package at Lizard Island (www.lizardisland.com.au), an immaculate property celebrated for its water sports. It includes a spa session, a private beachside dining experience and a sunset cruise. The cost is $A990 (£560) per couple per night, in addition to your accommodation and transfers from the mainland.

For a truly special introduction to Australia, taking in the Outback, Sydney and the Great Barrier Reef, check out the 13-day Sun, Surf & Family Adventure from The Tailor (www.thetailor.com.au). Priced at $A58,000 (£32,815) for two adults and two children, it includes three nights on Orpheus Island, one of the most exclusive resorts in Queensland, plus activities such as snorkelling, paddleboarding and kayaking. 

Far North Sport Fishing’s Northern Exposure charter (www.fnsf-nomad.com) is a unique fishing adventure. Sailing from Lizard Island, it offers the chance to fish for giant trevally, Spanish mackerel, wahoo and mahi-mahi on board Blue Martini, a luxurious 70-foot cruiser. Prices start at $A6,750 (£3,824) per person, including meals, accommodation and non-alcoholic beverages. Transfers from Cairns to Lizard Island are not included. Sailings in March and April, October and November.

While the Great Barrier Reef is often associated with swish resorts, luxury yachts and high-end dining, it is actually a destination that suits every budget. Backpackers have been flocking to northern Queensland for decades and there is an excellent network of hostels, tour operators and watering holes to suit their needs.

For something really magical, spend a couple of days at Great Keppel Island Holiday Village (gkiholidayvillage.com.au) near Rockhampton; bring you own tent or book the glamping option.

Cairns is the best place to start for affordable day trips to the reef. Big Cat Reef Cruises (greenisland.com.au) offers trips to Green Island on board a luxury 35m catamaran for just over $A100 (£57), including use of snorkel gear. Self-guided snorkelling trips to Magnetic Island are equally affordable – just catch the SeaLink ferry from Townsville.

Scuba diving on the reef is naturally one of the most expensive activities, but ProDive Cairns (prodivecairns.com) offers a range of competitively priced liveaboard expeditions, including learn-to-dive courses for beginners. Its one-day dive and snorkel trips to the Outer Reef from Cairns aboard a 29m catamaran, including three separate dives, a guided snorkelling tour and lunch, costs $A252 (£142).

For anyone jumping in and out of boats, dinghies or kayaks a dry bag is essential kit. These soft, waterproof bags are ideal for protecting your mobile, camera and dry clothes. They are available from Macpac (macpac.com.au) and Kathmandu (kathmandu.com.au) camping stores.

For decent protection out on the water you need something better than a baseball cap. Anaconda (anacondastores.com) has a selection washable cloth bucket hats and inexpensive wide-brimmed straw hats.

Neoprene shoes (or booties) are ideal for anyone who wants to explore Queensland’s coral reefs. Popular with surfers, snorkellers and kayakers, they will protect your feet from painful coral injuries. Wetsuit Warehouse (wetsuitwarehouse.com.au) has a good selection. 

Research has found that chemical sunscreens disrupt the natural development of corals. Reef-safe sunscreens are typically mineral based and contain zinc oxide and titanium oxide. Popular brands include Ocean Australia, SunButter and SurfMud. Avoid commercial sunscreens that list oxybenzone and octinoxate as ingredients.

• British tourists need to apply for eVisitor visa, valid for three months, before they arrive in Australia. 
• The currency is the Australian dollar. Cards are accepted up and down the country, but cash is still useful in rural areas. 
• You will need to apply and pay for a camping permit if you plan to stay overnight in a Queensland National Park.
• The Foreign Office says that travellers should exercise care when travelling to remote areas of Australia. 
• For urgent help contact the British Consulate General in Brisbane on +61 (0) 7 3223 3200. 
• Call 000 for police, fire and ambulance services.